One year young, Mandarin Oriental Qianmen has already established itself as a game changer in Beijing, and possibly, in all China. Let’s discover how…
LOCATION
Welcome to the 600-year-old Caochang hutong neighbourhood, arguably the best preserved in town, still flourishing with residents.
Situated in the Dongcheng district, part of the Beijing Central Axis, it is just steps away from the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. The property manages to be in the middle of it all and yet takes the visitor back to one of the most honoured forms of housing in Beijing: the hutong.
The hotel is constituted by courtyard houses (siheyuan) erected in rows. These areas are in fact marked by the narrow alleyways formed between them, the aforementioned hutongs.
Even the most demanding Lux traveller will swoon discovering that there are no rooms here, but just 42 courtyard houses showcasing the pinnacle of Chinese splendor.
All of the houses are expansive to say the least, from 110 to 491 sq m, offering an independent residence with a courtyard, granting the highest discretion and privacy levels while living door to door with locals and their homes standing alongside the hotel ones.
Your own house in the Chinese capital.
DECOR
Caochang hutong, a labyrinth of alleyways and one of Beijing’s oldest areas, is the perfect place for the luxurious courtyard houses, but undoubtedly presented a challenge for Joe Chang, founder of the award-winning Chinese architecture firm that took care of the restoration of the properties.
A scrupulous job that managed to preserve a staggering 83% of the original, strictly adhering to restoring and preserving the neighborhood as well as the houses, in which former imperial inspectors and famed Peking Opera singers used to live. The result is one of the finest examples of traditional siheyuan hutong architecture ever.
The hushed grandiosity can be seen from the moment one enters the hotel, with a lobby built around two centuries-old trees, and it goes on with a reception counter inspired by painting tables of the Ming Era.
ROOMS
There are no rooms at the Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, but 42 hutong courtyard houses. Chic and supremely comfortable, they are dotted around the alleys, granting guests a sense of place that has no match.
Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors welcome abundant light while furniture is a feast for the senses; precious woods, green marble and the most refined fabrics dressing the space along with beautiful objects and rare books.
The courtyard itself is an invitation to dwell and just take a moment to yourself or chat with loved ones while hearing the chirping birds above.
SERVICE AND AMBIENCE
Even the most pampered guest will be taken aback by the impeccable service throughout the hotel; kindness, efficiency and anticipation are keywords here. The team works in perfect sync, delivering the most harmonious stay.
Our personal butler Sandra was the embodiment of grace, taking care of us in the most attentive way. From restaurant suggestions to rescheduling spa treatments due to traffic jams, she handled everything with seamless efficiency. She even surprised us with sweet delicacies from the local cuisine and, on our last night, left a handwritten note wishing us a restful sleep and a pleasant journey back home.
Chief Concierge Bob was also a pillar of our stay, securing tough tables and organizing a Summer Palace tour with a private guide and a chauffeured car.
The atmosphere that ensues is quiet and celebratory at the same time, with plenty of smiling faces from the guests I had the chance of meeting during my stay.
RESTAURANTS
With four distinct venues you will be spoiled for choice.
The Maple Lounge, named after the hotel’s century-old maple tree, is perfect for a quiet afternoon tea. Just alleys away, VICINI (“neighbours” in Italian) serves a heartwarming and delicious Italian fare.
Yan Garden, by Chef Fei, is where I had a dinner to be remembered. Michelin-starred Chef Fei is a master of Cantonese and Chaozhou cuisine and, with his Executive Chinese Chef Peter Chen, delivers an immersive, sense-awakening dining journey. Highly recommended is the tasting menu that offers heavenly dishes such as Chef Fei’s Signature Deep-fried Pigeon and Wok-fried Fresh Lily Bulb and Sugar Snap Peas; all of them paired with vintage teas.
Cherry on top of it all is TIAO, discreetly nestled in the northeast corner of the hotel, this is a gem of a cocktail bar, where the formidable Hector and his team offer impeccably crafted drinks; from the big classics to some created especially for the property, paying homage to each hutong (personal favourites include: “Morning Dew” and “Tiao”).
SPA AND WELLNESS
Comprising three sprawling treatment suites, a fitness center with Pilates, yoga, and Tai Chi instructors on call, and a calming tea house, the spa is the essence of serenity. Carve some time in between the sightseeing to enjoy, as I did.
After an assessment of my likes and needs, I enjoyed an Oriental Essence massage that combined Chinese and Western knowledge, getting rid of bloating, relaxing muscles and healing tensions in the body, face and scalp.
My therapist, the exquisite Sunny, made such an excellent job that Yours Truly is getting compliments left and right on the state of his face even after a 14-hour flight and a week later.
INSIDER’S TIPS
– Be indulgent and relax in your own private tea room as this Lux traveller did in his siheyuan;
– Enjoy a chat with the hotel’s General Manager Andy Guan: he is a joy to talk to thanks to his great knowledge about China and his sophisticated intellect;
– While there is a a driver with a custom golf cart made to access even the narrowest hutong, take the time to stroll and enjoy the Caochang neighborhood on foot: allow yourself to be marveled by the lovely cafés, authentic restaurants and the warmth of people playing Mahjong on the pavements. Maybe even risk a match!
